Tianjin Restaurant Review: Meiji

By Nick Mateer

At the entrance of Meiji scents and steam flow outward from a small glass room, in which chefs stand slicing and basting. This is the appetizing scene that occurs in full view of Meiji’s customers as they line up to order from the restaurant’s simple menu. (And yes, you can expect a line.) 

Although the restaurant does indeed have a menu, which is both printed and carved into traditional hanging wooden blocks, the sight of everything being made in front of you means you’re better off with making an impulsive choice. Its menu centers around Hong Kong-style roast meats, ranging from juicy duck with crispy skin to sweet chunks of pork fat. Then there’s rice. There’s bok choy. There’s three sauces and some salt. That’s it, and the experience is all the better for it. 

A streamlined menu means the staff can focus on perfecting the fare at hand. The duck is tender, juicy and full of flavor, pure to its roots. The seared fat, positively dripping with sweetness, is almost cruel in how delicious it is. A garlicky, umami-rich sauce performs very well spread over the entire plate, always complementing but never overpowering. A sweet, fruity sauce also tastes fantastic with all four meats. And the classic hoisin sauce is offered as well. Everything seems to work with everything else – a fun addition to an otherwise straightforward menu. 

Perhaps equally straightforward is the interior design, whose simple, pretty minimalism mirrors the simple goodness of Meiji’s food. The seats are comfortable, the staff is friendly and the atmosphere is quiet and familial – if there are no crowds, that is. (Saturday lunchtime can get pretty bumpin’.) The entrance is small and modest, dwarfed by the giant red LEDs of and more attention-seeking restaurants on either side. Meiji is easy to miss – but you really don’t want to miss this one.

Meiji. 25-7 Pingshan Dao, Hexi 河西区平山道25号增7号

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